![]() The final result is attached - See attachment "Stacked for PF". Clicked on "Check All" and then on "Stack checked pictures".I loaded these into DeepSkyStacker as "dark" files I had also taken a couple of photos with the lens cap on with the same settings, as per MossyRocks advice.Loaded the remaining 38 photos into DeepSkyStacker - By default they were "light" files.Deleted a handful of photos in which an airplane flew overhead.Drive mode set to high speed continuous.You can clearly see the stars even though there was quite a bit of ambient light. I've attached one of the photos (resized) to this post (see attachment "Example for PF"). I use a wired release cable to take a sequence of night sky photos over the course of 35 minutes. Hi All, so I had a somewhat clear sky last evening, but my first attempt wasn't great. It may be that that K-70 uses a 3.5mm connector instead of the traditional Pentax 2.5mm one but I don't have a K-70. That one says it is for the K-70 but looks like it is a 3.5mm (the more standard headphone plug) connector. I know on the K-3, K-3ii, k-3iii, and K500 that the connector is a 3 conductor 2.5mm plug. ![]() the biggest things is making sure that the part that plugs into the camera is the right connector. That shutter release looks like it may work. The one I posted also has a regular shutter release button and the ability to hold the button down so you can also use it as a regular shutter release cable. There are other options they support as well but they are handy. Often times they have an option for an initial delay period that can be set. It can be set to take X number of pictures that are Y in length with Z time between them. Do you reckon the alternative that I suggested would do the job?An intervolometer is a more capable remote shutter control. The one that you posted doesn't seem to be available in the UK. ![]() Is an intervolometer the same thing as a remote shutter? The image below was with the K-3, you can't set minimum so the interval was set to 33 seconds and the shutter to 30 seconds (32 actual seconds) so produces a 1 second gap - which is pretty hard to spot at 100% (35 mm lens, f5.6, ISO800, 60 frames stacked). got lots of really gappy trails finding this out (why camera makers object to using the actual shutter duration escapes me?).īut you can make it work with the internal if you want and the question is really whether you want to risk a 30 second gap or a longer gap if a frame goes wrong - a lot of night stuff seems to end up with questions of risk and reward (and equipment procurement ). The stupidest thing I discovered while testing and making mistakes is that a 15 second exposure is actually 16 seconds and a 30 second exposure is actually 32 seconds. It also gets rid of having to calculate or test to find the minimum interval you can adopt for saving the image if you use the internal intervalometer (except on the Kp where you can choose minimum). If something goes wrong with a frame, you only have to throw away 30 seconds, which will still leave a gap but may not be terminal for the image. I can see the advantages in using continuous shooting and this is definitely a lower risk way of composing the trails. You are correct in that they would allow for several minutes of exposure but in that case a bad single frame (god knows I have gotten a lot when out at night) would make a big gap in the trails.100%. Depending on how point like the stars are and what focal length is used this may result in start and stops in the trails. For doing star trails I am not a real big fan of intervolometers either built in or external as there is a delay between of 1 to a few seconds typically between shots.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |